Monday, March 2, 2009

3-2-o9 More tire talk

There has been talk lately over handling country tractor tires. I’m going to make a few suggestions here as to care and handling the heavier tractor drivers. Yesterday I had made a written mistake suggesting using Rim Gard on the rims of all tire mountings. Sorry about that. No animosity towards Rim Gard makers or sellers, I should have suggested a tire and rim lubricant liking this from Gempler. Rema-tire-mounting lubricant. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v343/FMGruber/Machinery%20Etc/rema-tire-mounting-162457-thm.jpg
Another handy product from Gempler is this bead breaker they sell. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v343/FMGruber/Machinery%20Etc/tire-bead-breaker-145883-thm.jpg It’s use is well worth the price saved paying somebody else to fix two tractor drivers. I did at least four tires season last and seven year the before. And, I’m 72 yrs. That’s a lot of lustrums.
A couple of these longer tire irons are required. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v343/FMGruber/Machinery%20Etc/long-stock-curved-G65298-thm.jpg
Two of these are handier than one for really stubborn rusted on tire beads. A driving iron. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v343/FMGruber/Machinery%20Etc/driving-iron-product-6B-thm.jpg
A good rubber headed bead breaking hammer, what looks something like this, comes in handy as well. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v343/FMGruber/Machinery%20Etc/short-handled-bead-T11D.jpg
This item that requires extreme careful use, not always required, so’s not to puncture the inner tube. I use it sometimes use it for prying the tire bead away from an upright tire I may be taking off a rusty rim. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v343/FMGruber/Machinery%20Etc/yhst-43884400236338_2041_127448258.jpg DascoPro 17" Long 90 Degree Claw Ripping Bar 232. Please note: an older ripping bar with all the edges worn round and smooth is more safely used upon any projects the parts wanted saved.
One last item required is a good heavy duty ten tone hydraulic jack, along with enough solid chunks of wood blocking to hold the rear end of the tractor up twice, some of the pieces of assorted 1”x4“, 1 ½”, 2’, etcetera-etcetra and 4”x4”. I like a supply of 6”x6”’s and/or 8”x8”for use under a jack to an axel. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v343/FMGruber/Machinery%20Etc/93376-t.gif
Word of extreme caution: for something I’ve seen done!!! I do it occasionally, naughty me!!!! Using unsafe concrete cement blocks use a piece of plywood between any two concrete surfaces that may otherwise set together. A single stone between two cement blocks may cause one or both to crush and/or shatter to break and crumble apart. Note. Never never-ever use a concrete block on it’s edge for it can easily crumble sideways.
I hope these words are of some help to anyone working on a farm tractor‘s driving tire.
Fernan

1 comment:

Paula said...

Looks like some mighty good advice here.